“As an artist, I am fascinated by the rich history and diverse cultural heritage of our ancestors, and the threads that bind us together.”
Laura Merage, 2023

Laura Merage in collaboration with Isabel Fernandez, Head of Tapestries at Factum Arte has materialised a series of tapestries entitled Genesis, 2023. This edition is formed of four tapestries, each 183 x 145 cm. These tapestries are based on two photographs of Merage’s parents. Genesis 1, 2 and 3 are silk tapestry editions based on a black and white photograph of the artist’s mother. Genesis 4 (183 x 145 cm) is a photo montage of the artist’s father. using a wool yarn to generate the sepia tones.

The artist approached Factum Arte with a desire to create a tapestry where the image was woven into the rug, rather than simply printed on an already woven rug. This process was considered for Genesis 1, 2 and 3, the silk tapestry editions display the image of the artist’s mother. In this instance silk jacquard weaving which weaves horizontally and was recommended. This provides greater texture and durability to the textile and enables gentle and detailed shading and highlights to be materialised in certain areas, which was particularly important for this woven portrait.

Genesis 1 was woven on very fine silk and lurex, which provided excellent quality and detail for weaving on silk. It was woven using a warp with a composition of 100% silk and 100% Spun Mulberry Silk weft. The silks were from Japan in different colours (black to white) all with a sheen; a lurex thread was used, where the silver is vaporised on a supporting synthetic ribbon twisted around a viscose core, creating a silver look that is easy to weave and cut.

Delicate metal thread filters through to certain areas of the mother's hair, while the rest of the metallic thread runs hidden on the back of the textile. During the test process, Merage felt that the negative image shining in lurex appearing on the back of the textile was exactly the language she was seeking to represent certain aspects of the portrait. The weaving file was modified to reverse the effects meaning the final result is a negative silver photographic portrait of the mother with subtle details of lurex throughout the hair with an exquisite silk velvet sheen. 

This series involved various experimental tests in order to achieve the detailed and gradual shading that is not so common in tapestries. Four tests were tried on a silk Jacquard weaving loom, to understand what would provide the best detail. These combinations consisted of weaving wefts (1) Silver thread, black silk, white silk (2) Silver thread, black silk, white silk (3) Blue metal thread, silver metal thread and white silk (4) Black and white silk. There was a significant focus on light and shadow and avoiding too much texture on the face. This was achieved by removing some of the metal threads.

In the end, Genesis 2 was woven with a warp composition of 84% Cotton 16% Acrylic, the purpose of this blend is that nylon provides more resistance to the warps to stand the tension of weft, which was 100% Spun Mulberry Silk. Finally, Genesis 3 followed the same warp compostition as Genesis 2 and had a weft which was 100% wool. 

Genesis 2 © Oak Taylor-Smith for Factum Arte

Genesis 3 © Oak Taylor-Smith for Factum Arte

Genesis 4 was based on a photomontage image of the artist’s father in wool (sepia). This tapestry was woven using a warp with a composition of 85% cotton and 15% polyamide and 100% wool weft. The tapestry palette is formed of yellow, green and brown, which creates a sepia tone. In addition, the blend of these with the several colours of the warps results in a richness to the ensemble.

Merage’s artistic expression takes the form of tapestries, meticulously crafted to represent a bygone era that was more arduous but also straightforward. 

Factum Team: Isabel Fernández López

Collaborative Partners: Marcos Ludueña- Segre, Weavers: B&T (Genesis 1,2,3), Gitalia (Genesis 4)